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                +微信公眾號 100000+人已加入

                寧波三臭

                贊賞

                寧波菜里面的三臭是非常有名的,指的是臭冬瓜、臭莧菜管(梗)、臭芋艿蕻(芋艿的菜心),現在三臭只中臭芋艿蕻基本消失了,代替的一個是臭豆腐。其最大特點是“聞聞是臭的,吃吃是香的”。

                寧波人食“臭”歷史悠久,清代范宣的《越諺》有“莧菜梗”條:“莧見《易夫卦》,其梗如蔗段,腌之氣臭味佳,最下飯”。“三臭”制作原理跟紹興的霉豆腐、霉千張、霉筍相似,但風味不一樣。腌制“三臭”的關鍵得先做好一甏臭鹵。小時候看到媽媽做臭鹵前先要將甏洗凈晾干,再向隔壁鄰舍討一小碗臭鹵倒入甏中作為引子,然后把一些吃剩的鞭筍湯、毛豆節之類的東西放進去,用塑料袋密封甏口,發酵幾天后就大功告成了。若沒有現成的臭鹵作引子的話,那制作起來就稍微復雜點。我媽的經驗是將冬腌的咸菜和鹵放入甏里,讓其加速腐爛發臭,說是“爛發肥,臭生香”。或在自留地里采幾株莧菜,去葉子、洗凈、切段后,放在清水浸一夜,等水面起一層白色的泡沫,便將莧菜梗取出瀝干,放在甏里撒上幾把鹽和一些干凈的蔬菜湯后就可以了。做臭鹵關鍵是要密封,否則那股臭兮兮的味道是蒼蠅最愛來繁殖后代的地方。好的臭鹵不僅清澈而且臭中帶有股異香,保存好的可用上幾年。

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