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                揚州大草巷 小草巷

                贊賞

                揚州東門內有條東西向小巷,位于東關街北側,與之平行,巷道狹窄,名叫大草巷。一條南北向更狹小的小草巷,將兩條街巷溝通。
                許多人不解,巷名中的這“草”,那“草”,從何而來?說來話長,要從揚州城的演變談起。明清時期,揚州城局限在“宋大城”一隅,從西南角起步,謂之“舊城”;后規模擴大到運河邊,形成“新城”。
                明代,舊城東門外,戰馬馳騁,人煙稀少,加之地勢低洼,不宜人居。這里如今仍保留的地名中有許多“橋”,得以佐證。因“倭寇”時常騷擾,燒搶擄掠,軍民必須時刻警惕。城外屯兵防守,厲兵秣馬,保衛老百姓的生命財產安全。軍隊備馬,政府有管理馬匹的專門機構——牧馬監。馬要吃草,兵馬未動,糧草先行。駐軍附近便有了大大小小貯草的垛堆,大草巷、小草巷之稱謂,由此而來。
                康乾時期,國富民強,城內駐軍已無必要,漸次退至郊外。發家致富的大戶,看中城東大片廢棄空地,陸續蓋房造屋。大草巷、小草巷,靠近繁華的東關大街,區位優勢明顯,逐漸蓋起了一批豪宅,其中緊貼小草巷東側的張宅,規模宏闊,最為顯眼。
                據說,張氏是當年揚州城四大戶之首,與南河下何氏不分伯仲。張氏家譜記載,先祖系明末草莽頭領張士誠,張被朱元璋俘虜后自縊身亡。他的后裔四處流落,之后輾轉來到揚州,鬼使神差的竟又當上揚州首富。張家是出名的積善之家,為貧民免費行醫、舍藥,遇到荒年,還在街上搭大棚開“粥廠”,賑濟災民。
                大草巷張允和,是地官第“冰甌仙館”主人張丙炎的從侄,張丙炎(1826——1905年),字午橋,號榕園,由翰林院編修出任廣州肇慶知府,博雅好古,喜吟詠,富收藏,晚年工篆書,著有《冰甌館詞》《榕園叢書》。
                張氏豪宅,從現存房屋的格局分析,當年它的正門很可能在東關街上,南北軸線齊整,前后貫通,器宇軒昂,直達最北端的大草巷。后來的“冬榮園”,也就是另外一位叫張允和的女士、著名作家沈從文的妻子,她母親家的宅第,或許就是張氏豪宅東路建筑的南端部分。
                如今在大宅東側墻上,有一塊白底黑字的《張允和故居》銘牌,簡要說明老宅的來龍去脈:“張允和,字甘亭,儀征人。工四體書,尤擅丹青。山水仿宋元,精細工秀,悉有規矩。年近八旬,猶揮毫不輟,人得之若拱璧。間有小詩,亦佳妙。民國十八年(1929年)4月,揚州整頓慈善機構,設立救濟院,張允和任院長。借東關街兩淮中學校址辦公,每年經費額定2400元。故居原有房屋三路十三進一百余間,為揚州民居縱深進數最多者。后部分損毀,現中西兩路保存尚好。”
                張允和,字甘亭,號蠖叟,生于1868年,清末庠生。他是民國揚州的“濤社”成員,書畫名家,與當時揚州名流如陳含光、鮑婁先、林雪崖等過從甚密。1921年,陳含光山水畫《女貞補種圖》由張甘亭篆書題首。1948年董玉書撰《蕪城懷舊錄》,書名也是他篆書題簽。杜召棠在《揚州訪舊錄》中說:“張甘亭(允和)行七……張氏寓東關大街小草巷東,子孫繁盛,累世同居。民國以還,親丁一百六十余口,為揚城獨一無二人口眾多巨族。”董玉書《蕪城懷舊錄》云:“(甘亭公)年七十余,頎身鶴立,人望之若神仙。” 至今仍鐫刻在東關街396號藹園的門楣題額,即出自張允和老先生的手筆。
                張允和有個弟弟,名允臻(1878——1915年),字翕亭。自小衣食無憂,但他沒有自甘墮落為紈绔子弟,青年時毅然離家,東渡日本求學。
                甲午海戰后,清王朝一敗塗地、割地賠款,喪權辱國,中國在風雨飄搖中岌岌可危。有志青年紛紛赴海外學習富國強兵之道,誓圖復興中華。張允臻正是熱血青年中的一名。歸國后,北京任警員,擅長繪畫,醉心于水墨丹青。可惜天不假年,正值壯年期,因病謝世。長子張重威(1901——1975年),侍奉母親扶靈柩回揚州安葬。
                張重威,名垕(hòu)昌,自小受家學熏陶,先后應聘任揚州美漢中學和崇德女子中學的高中國文教員。在北京時,師從鄉賢劉師培,積累淵博的國學知識。青年時不僅處事沉穩,而且漸顯超群的理財稟賦。26歲奉丈人之召,進中南銀行任練習生。三年后,獲中南銀行總經理胡筆江賞識,許以重任。31歲破格升任襄理,后升任總行副總經理,成為金融、工商界聞人。解放前,上海灘號稱東亞第一高樓的國際飯店,總經理即是這位從揚州大草巷走出去的張重威!
                張重威53歲患胃癌,命懸一線。手術后,竟奇跡般的恢復健康,這或許是他一生恪守“不貪財,不好色”六字訣起的作用吧!2007年,北京嘉德秋季藝術品拍賣會上,爆出一聲驚雷,仇英的《赤壁圖》拍出7952萬的天價。這堪稱世界級的中華藝術瑰寶,張重威是原先的藏家。
                時代進步,如今大草巷面貌有較大改觀。巷南大片舊民居被拆除,現代住宅樓取而代之。小草巷格局依然,狹窄、恬靜,與巷南繁華的東關街,對比鮮明。小草巷以西曾是揚州特產四美醬菜的起源地,碩大的醬缸排列在街巷兩旁空場上,行人路過,陣陣醬香飄來,別有情趣。無奈時過境遷,此情此景已成為原住民的難忘記憶!

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