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                +微信公眾號 100000+人已加入

                揚州“下鋪街”

                贊賞

                準確的說,揚州下鋪街的存世遠不止百年,只不過早年它沒有正式的大名。乾隆年間刊印的《揚州畫舫錄》卷九“小秦淮錄”,描述揚州舊城南門附近街道,作如是介紹:“自南門始,路東為南門左城腳、薛副使巷(巷內右通舊城東南隅無名小巷,出左城腳,左折為孔北海祠通宋家橋,中有街通壽安寺)……”這條舊城東南隅的無名小巷,即是后來的下鋪街。
                下鋪街的走向,與南面的城墻(今南通西路)平行,本土詩人童嘉通喻之為:“古城南城門的一根門閂”,生動而形象。下鋪街東通南城根,西接南門街,長三百多米。一百多年前,外國教會在此開辦一所小學,初名“慕究理”,后改名“育才”。上世紀八十年代,學校的大門正對下鋪街,后來學校擴建,下鋪街被攔腰截斷,留下了東面的半截。
                從前,下鋪街是一條商業街,或許街道的得名與此有關。眾多店鋪中有謝馥春香粉店,這是家赫赫有名的百年老店,出售的化妝品遠銷海外,還在巴拿馬國際博覽會上拿過金獎呢!咸豐兵燹后,揚州的商業中心逐漸向轅門橋轉移,謝馥春老板審時度勢,幾經周折,也將店鋪遷到了那里。
                       清末秀才尹恭壽(1876-1945年),字潤生,善吟詠,工書法,喜收藏,祖籍鎮江丹徒,曾居住在下鋪街(今粉妝巷20號)。宅內有一片竹園,取名“松竹草堂”。他與揚州名士李涵秋、梁公約等人過從甚密,其詩云:“城南花廳郭北房,何處老街著粉妝?借得一場秋風雨,洗盡鉛華還素裝。”丹徒唐堯年題尹氏“松竹草堂”:“結屋編茅尹氏居,瑯函秘笈誦吟初。雖非海內知名地,卻有人間未見書。介節真如松竹勁,奇材端為棟梁儲。他年欲問和羹事,一出吾廬愿不虛。”
                育才小學內有座歐式風格的青磚洋樓——仁愛樓,古樸典雅,保留至今。磚木結構三層樓,坐落在紫薇、斑竹環繞的綠色中。底層門窗為拱券型,深色邊框襯托出莊嚴肅穆。二樓設方形門窗,三樓“人”字屋頂帶老虎天窗。早年樓宇曾是主要教學用房,如今仍肩負著教書育人的重任。
                見證下鋪街滄桑的物證,已然不多,大多隨歷史煙云而消逝。位于下鋪街6號的小洋樓和樓前花園內的幾株古樹,許是幸存的“寧馨兒”。
                從粉妝巷南頭拐向東,便走進下鋪街。老街上行人稀少,一片寧靜,使習慣城市喧囂的人們感到稍稍的不適應。下鋪街6號位于街中段——一座洋味十足的小別墅。園中,幾棵大樹偉岸挺拔,一株龍爪槐靜默佇立在庭院一角,各色盆景擺放齊整,顯出宅院幾許別致的風韻。一條窄徑通往青灰色二層洋房,果然,宛如英國的鄉間別墅,端莊雅潔,與眾不同。帶閣樓的尖頂建筑,屋面陡峭,哥特式風格濃郁,屋頂鋪滿深灰色魚鱗瓦。小樓仍住著人,老屋得到善待。墻外沒有亂搭亂建,窗戶上安了紗窗,體現出住戶精心呵護的匠心。
                洋房建于清光緒十八年(1892年),是一位美國傳教士建的私宅。他名叫施坦士,要考證他的身世已很困難,他的身份與附近禮拜巷會不會有著某種內在聯系呢?前園中,有幾株高大的枸骨樹,據附近居民介紹,大樹靠近巷子邊,每年秋冬季節,樹上結出紅果子非常好看。熟知揚州“樹情”的專家告知,枸骨樹屬冬青科,常綠喬木,單葉互生,硬革質,葉尖帶刺。從樹身看,它的歲數應該與洋樓的建筑年齡相仿,都在百歲之上。
                與枸骨樹同樣年邁的杜仲樹,也生長了這座院子里,其中最粗的一棵胸圍1.3米,樹高約18米。住戶的主人說,不知道這幾棵杜仲樹是什么時候栽的,反正“住進來時就有了”。專家介紹,杜仲是我國的特有樹種,樹皮入藥,在揚州非常稀少,下鋪街的這棵,是揚州最大的杜仲樹。它的特點是樹葉跟藕一樣有絲,“把葉片扯斷,絲還連著。”
                這就是所謂的樹葉對根的思念吧!如同城市的文化精髓,有些枝葉雖跟主干被阻斷,但它的脈絡卻依然通聯著。

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